Tonight at Chez Bart: Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine

Short ribs are one of my favorite cuts of meat. They are versatile, easy to cook with; and when braised slowly over low heat, yield tender and delicious results. Short ribs are prominent in both Italian and French cooking, and if you attend any restaurant worth a Michelin star, they serve them. My guess is the influence of wine in French and Italian gastronomy. 


Red wine is a perfect base for braising liquid, and it's not surprising that Barolo and Bordeaux - two of the most influential red wines in the world - are used by the world's top chefs to braise their short ribs. Their full bodied nature is perfect for braising, because as the cooking liquid evaporates over the meat, it leaves even further concentrated flavors. I have been told that Mario Batali, for his Oso Bucco, has used Barolos priced in the hundreds of dollars.


This recipe, which I found in an issue of Gourmet Italian Kitchen, looked amazing for all those reasons I mentioned above: slow cooked short ribs in a Barolo braising liquid. Let's see how it compares with Giada's recipe that I have made numerous times in the past!


*Note: I checked Gourmet Italian Kitchen's website, and it looks like this recipe is not fully in the public domain yet. Thus, I will not give exact quantities of ingredients. Sorry!!!


Store Notes: This recipe calls for Barolo wine. At first I considered it, but then after talking with the manager at my wine shop, I settled on a bottle of Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco 2007. The manager assured me that it would be an excellent full bodied wine for braising, and at $23.99, was ten dollars cheaper that the cheapest Barolo. 

The other pricey part of this dish is the short ribs, not because they are an expensive cut of meat, but because you need to buy over 4 pounds of them! Since I have never made this recipe before, I figured I wouldn't deviate from the prescribed amount. Besides, I do not mind left-overs one bit!

4 1/2 pounds of beef bone-in short ribs!

Other items that you will need are as follows:

• Pancetta
• Fresh Thyme sprigs
• Fresh Rosemary sprigs
• Garlic
• Onion
• Carrots
• Celery
• Can of diced tomatoes
• Olive Oil
• Salt
• Pepper
• Water

For equipment, you will need a large dutch oven.

Prep Notes: Ahead of time, chop the onions, carrots, and celery. Mince the garlic, and cube the pancetta. As for the short ribs, rub salt and pepper on all sides of the short ribs.

To reduce the wine for the braising liquid, pour the entire bottle of wine into a 3 quart sauce pan. Heat until boiling, and let boil until only 1 cup is left. Set aside for later.

Wine being reduced!

Cook Notes: Heat the dutch oven on medium-high. Use enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pot, and once the oil shimmers, add the short ribs in batches. Cook the short ribs for a minute on each side, removing after both sides have been browned. 

Once all the ribs are browned, set them aside and remove all but 1 tablespoon of oil from the dutch oven. Add the pancetta, and cook until the edges are starting to get brown. Next, add the onions, and cook until they just begin to caramelize. Add the minced garlic, and cook for a minute or two; then add the celery, carrots,  and herb sprigs. Cook for a couple of minutes, stirring every now and then.

Pancetta being rendered; there is nothing better than
using fat from pancetta to add a whole new dimension
of flavors to one's cooking. You can use less oil too!

Add the diced tomatoes, and stir so everything is well mixed. Add back the short ribs to the dutch oven, and then pour the reduced wine and 2 cups of water over top of the ribs. Bring the liquid to a boil, and then cover and place in a 325 degree oven for 2-2.5 hours.

Ribs, with the vegetables below, and the braising liquid
poured over top

Remove the dutch oven from the oven, and skim off any excess fat from the surface of the sauce. Now, if you wish to reduce the sauce a bit, carefully remove the short ribs and heat the sauce until to simmers. Once the sauce is at a desired consistency, return the short ribs to the pot. Plate the short ribs over pasta tossed in butter and fresh minced parsley.

Tasting Notes: The completely falls off the bone as I transport a short rib to my plate. The meat is incredibly tender and moist. The onions, carrots, celery & garlic provide zesty notes - sweetness from the carrots and onions balanced with the flavors of the garlic and celery. The pancetta lends salty notes to further round out the palette.

Dinner is served!

And the pièce de résistance was the bold notes lent by the red wine reduction in the braising liquid. The truly expand the dimension of flavors in this dish; the earthy notes of the vegetables, and buttery-salty notes of the pancetta/short ribs mingle with the big fruit - currant & blackberry - of the wine to truly offer a gustatory odyssey. Outstanding!


Libation Notes: This dish should be accompanied by a wine with equal to or greater body than what was used for the braising liquid. I would definitely recommend the Nebbiolo I used for the cooking, but if the occasion were special enough (date, dinner party, etc.), I could easily see myself buying a nice $40 - $60 BaroloMeritage. 


Overall: An excellent dish, definitely worthy of another go-around. Personally, I prefer Giada's recipe to this one, but that is akin to saying that I prefer Chateau Margaux to Chateau Haut-Brion. Both are excellent; I just think I prefer the composition of the braising liquid in Giada's recipe better. 


That being said, if I were to make this recipe again I would do the following:

• Substitute the water for beef broth
• Decrease the short ribs from 4 1/2 pounds to 2 1/2 pounds

If you were in the mood for more of a pasta-esque meal, I would recommend shredding the meat once you remove the pot from the oven.

All in all, a solid meal worthy of making again.

Last Night at Chez Bart: Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Many of my regular followers know that I love authentic Italian food. This is partly due to my culinary odyssey in Tuscany last September/October. It's also due to the fact that I loathe 95% of what restaurants call Italian food. For some pathetic reason, Italian has become synonymous with alfredo at practically all but the most authentic restaurants. And its not even good alfredo, rather a cream-based soup thickened by starch that tastes, quite frankly, like shit. The net result is that whenever I crave Italian food, I usually just make it at home. 

Another Italian culinary casualty that I often see in American restaurants is the classic dish Pasta alla Carbonara. While Italian tradition dictates that egg and cheese are the only ingredients for the sauce, denizens the world over have sadly added a lot of cream to the recipe - thereby ruining it's delicate balance of flavors and textures. Chicken and vegetables are also commonly added, further deviating form the original Italian design. I think this is primarily done because in Italy, pasta is an appetizer, while in other parts of the world it is seen as a main course (and thus chefs feel they need to make it more hearty).

So you all can see when I found this little gem in an issue of La Cucina Italiana, I was excited to try it out! The recipe is compliments of Paolo Parisi, who is a legendary farmer in Tuscany (his farm is located just south of Pisa). He was one of the first farmers to raise and breed from near-extinction the Cinta Senese pig, and his eggs are highly prized by top restaurants throughout Italy (the free range chickens are fed a combination of whatever they can forage, and a grain/goat's milk mixture!). 

Please note that the recipe does not offer specific quantities of ingredients. While I tried my best to determine the correct amounts, more refining still needs to be done.

Store Notes: The recipe calls for the following:

• Guanciale; in this case, I used Pancetta because I have no idea whether my butcher can even get guanciale!
• Fresh Eggs, and I mean fresh! No longer than 3 days from when purchased.
• Pecorino Romano cheese
• Parmigiano-reggiano cheese
• Fresh Marjoram
• Garlic
• Lemon for zesting
• Pasta, either spaghetti or linguine
• Olive oil

Prep Notes: Prep is incredibly important for this dish, because the pasta has to be perfectly cooked at the time it is added to the sauce. If the sauce is not prepared ahead of time, the result will be overcooked pasta!

In a large bowl, grate equal parts of Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-reggiano (I did 1/3 cup each; grate more so you can tinker with the amount later if necessary). Next mince 3 cloves of garlic and 2 tablespoons of marjoram. Using a microplane, zest one lemon. Cube up the pancetta into small cubes, and set aside for sautéing.

In a large pot, bring heavily salted water to a boil, and in a sauté pan, heat up enough olive oil to coat the pan.

Cooking Notes: Once the water is boiling, place the pasta in the pot, and the pancetta into the sauté pan. The goal is to brown the edges of the pancetta, so stir occasionally. Next, in a small bowl, crack open 4 eggs and discard the shells. Give the eggs a quick whisk so that the yokes are broken up. 

After 7 minutes, the pasta should be close to done. Test it, and if it is al dente, remove from the stove. Save 1 cup of the pasta liquid, and then drain the rest through a colander. Working fast, shake the colander to remove any excess water, and then pour the hot pasta into the large bowl with the cheese/marjoram/garlic/etc. I emphasize hot because it really has to be hot. One cannot waste time from  when the pasta is removed to when it is poured into the bowl with the other ingredients. The reason for this is because next you are going to pour the eggs into the pasta, and the pasta's heat is going to cook the eggs!

So pour the eggs, the pancetta (including the cooking oil), and half the kept pasta water into the bowl. Toss the pasta so that it is well mixed. At this point, check the consistency of the sauce, and add more pasta water or cheese until the desired consistency has been achieved. Also, more marjoram, garlic, or lemon zest can be added to taste. To serve, plate the pasta, drizzle with olive oil and crack some fresh pepper over top. Buon appetito!

  

Tasting Notes: This dish is a veritable gut bomb, and thus perfectly suitable as an appetizer for a more protein-centric main course, because quite frankly you just wouldn't want to eat a huge bowl of this stuff. The eggs and cheese give it incredible richness, yet in a subtle manner compared with the cream/starch-laden globalized alfredo and carbonara sauces.

The pancetta compliments the cheese/egg by providing salty notes, while the marjoram and garlic provide further complexity with their zesty herb notes. The lemon zest rounds it out with sweet, citrus notes. A simple dish with complex flavors. Delish!

Libation Notes: While this dish is rich and complex, it's flavors are not overly strong to the palette. Thus, I would not recommend a bold wine with lots of fruit - you would just overpower the pasta and lose its incredible complexity. Ergo, I would recommend a nice, dry white Italian wine. A pinot grigio, or sauvignon blanc, would go quite well with this dish.

Overall: This is a gem of a dish, with a wide range of flavors, yet an overall simplistic preparation. I could easily see myself whipping this dish up as a starter, while my short ribs are braising. I will definitely make this one again, and continue to tinker with the quantities of ingredients, so expect future updates. Ciao!

Cayman Islands 2011, Day 7

The final full day of any trip always evokes melancholy thoughts. As much as I love the sun and diving, I am glad to be heading home. I miss my friends, car, apartment, and mild weather. All in all, I am just not cut out for perennial 85+ degree weather. Give me 70s with blue skies, and the occasional thunderstorm, and I am content. Also, the humidity is getting close to triple digits. And finally, I could really use time in the gym right now. The net result: I have enjoyed every moment of Cayman's 2011, but sure am glad to bidding farewell come 10am tomorrow morning.

The diving this morning was some of the best that I have done. Our first dive site was Shear Wall, and was 120 feet for 20 minutes. We dove down to the bottom of the anchor line - roughly 50 feet of water - and then followed James over the wall's crest and descended down to 115 feet of water. From there, we followed the wall observing various types of black coral. We then surfaced, and were greeted with a sea turtle gliding underneath along the bottom of the reef. Thus turned to be an omen for the next dive.

Caribbean Spiny Lobster: we saw dozens of these!

The next dive was at the reef of black coral forrest, for 30 minutes at 60 feet. When I first made my way to the bottom of the reef, I was greeted with two Caribbean lobster - one was absolutely ginormous! Another bit of an omen, as we saw upwards of 2 dozen lobsters in various nooks and crannies. The highlight of the dive - not to mention trip - then occurred. A hawkbills sea turtle came up to our group and started swimming with us! I rubbed his shell lightly, as did most of the group during the 15 minutes he swam with us, and he didn't spook! It was just so cool to be so close to such a tranquil creature in his own habitat. To finish off the dive, Nancy found another spotted drum. Then, while cruising back to the dock, a dolphin started swimming with the boat. By far the best dive day of my life!

Hawksbill Sea Turtle!

Afterwards, I gave the gear a thorough rinse down, before drying it out to pack. The afternoon was exceptionally lazy; I managed to finish my book and start another. Then James and the family - including Jolie - stopped over to say hi (and so James could collect for the diving). It was nice to see and catch up with her. Once they left, I packed up my diving gear, and we headed to Calypso Grill for dinner.

Calypso Grill, located in Morgan's Harbor, is by far my favorite restaurant on the island. It is consistently good, ever since the first time I was there back in 2002. They have this appetizer of mussels, steamed in a shallot-garlic-white wine-cream liquid. It is to die for, as they give you a basket of bread to soak up the liquid. Yummy!!! For dinner I had the Snapper Monte Carlo, which is snapper sautéed in this special garlic sauce, with shrimp and scallops, mixed vegetables, and shoe string potatoes. Desert was then chocolate bread pudding. What an excellent meal to finish such a good trip.

After dinner, we headed back to the condo. I quickly packed all my other junk, and then fixed myself a Cuba Libre. Tonight's cigar would be a Trinidad Fundadores. A medium bodied lancero, with a semi-oily wrapper and okay construction, it drew well but burned a little uneven. I think that was because the wrapper was too thin in spots. Still, the flavors were outstanding. Notes of sage, leather, and pepper. I would definitely smoke again, and it could have scored higher than the 93/100 that I gave it, had it been for better construction.

Trinidad Fundadores: One of my favorite Habanos!

Anyways, this will be the last blog posting from the Caymans for this year. It has been a marvelous trip, and I cannot wait to come back in 2012. Ciao!!!

Cayman Islands 2011, Day 6

Another day in the Cayman paradise. This morning, for reasons unknown to me given how late I stayed up - not to mention the excellent rum buzz I had going on last night - I decided I was ambitious, and woke up at 6am. Some coffee, an egg sandwich, a bit of packing, and I was off to the dive boat with Nancy (Bill decided to take a day off from diving).

Our first dive today was at Fishermen's wall, located on the north side. The dive called for 100 feet for 20 minutes. When I rolled over the side, I was greeted with nothing but blue. It turned out that because of the southerly wind, the boat was drifting off the buoy on the open-sea side of the wall. It was such a creepy sensation: rolling over the side of the boat and seeing nothing but deep blue of open water. After a few somersaults, I was able to spot the reef, and descended forth.

Soon enough, James was there to begin leading the deep dive. We went over the wall, and descended to roughly 100 feet of water. From there, we swam along the side of the wall due west. We saw a lion fish, which James tried to kill unsuccessfully with his implement. Then, as we rounded a point in the coral wall, we happened to spot an eagle ray swim along the top of the wall. From there, we were led through another groove in the coral back up to the top of the wall.

During that ascent, we passed over a huge lobster chillin' in a crevasse. That ended out deep dive, so the group headed to 15 feet to begin a safety stop. During our 3 minute off-gassing period, that same eagle ray swam right underneath us along the wall. A sort of farewell salute to the first dive of the day.

Spotted Eagle Ray flying in the water!

Back on board the boat, we headed 5 minutes south to Channel Reef, for another 50 feet for 30 minute dive. For this dive, I decided to try a new breathing technique: breathing out my nose. It worked great! I ended up diving for 40 minutes, and ended up using only 1,900 psi! During the dive, we found a treasure trove of fish, including 2 green moray eels (one was huge!!!), 2 spotted drum, a type of shrimp, and an anemone. It was a hugely successful dive, and I was sad to see it go - probably why I stayed out past the designated time (oops!).

Spotted Drum!

The rest of the day was spent reading "Raising the Titanic!" by Clive Cussler on my Kindle. Very low key and relaxing.

For dinner, we had our dive master James, and his two kids (J.J. - 8th grade, and Selena - 5th grade) over for our annual cookout. It is something we do every year: cook steaks and fish; as a thank you to James for the weeks of splendid dive service. Sadly, Jolie (pronounced Yo-lee), James' wife, couldn't make it because she was called to work (she works for Cayman Air as a flight attendant). The menu consisted of bruschetta and Nancy's famous guacamole for appetizers, followed by fillet mignon, salmon, and various salads for dinner. Desert consisted of rum cake a la mode, enhanced by a few shots of rum poured on top. Delish!

The best part of the night is just hanging with the kids. They have grown so much, and it is just nice to see them develop over the years. J.J. has grown a foot since last year, and Selena soon will be old enough to dive. Such great kids; it's just a joy to spend one evening with them.

After James and Co. left, Bill and I decided to light up a cigar and relax. My cigar for the night: a Vegas Robaina pyramid. A beautifully constructed cigar, with an extremely oily wrapper. It burned well, drew easy, and produced a nice, white, tight ash. A medium bodied cigar, I tasted notes of cedar, cinnamon, and leather. The finish was a bit stouter, with added notes of coffee and pepper. Overall I would give it a 94/100, and definitely make it a point to buy it again.

And that, my friends, finishes up another day. Tomorrow is my last dive day, as well as last night on the island.  My trip is starting to come to a close, as sad as that may be. Time to enjoy it while I can. Ciao!

Cayman Islands 2011, Day 5

"Go right through for MSU," was what woke me up this morning. I went down stairs, glugged some joe, and got ready for another day of diving. Arriving at the yacht club, I was greeted by the same diving contingent as the day before. We loaded up the boat, and motored out to our first dive site: Blue Chute.

I was one of the last of the group to go down. When I arrived at 70 feet of water, I chilled as James and the last of the group joined up. From there, James led us again down a 30 foot straight-down shaft in the coral. As I exited, I was greeted with the usual panoramic splendor of the wall meeting with both the open sea, and the tranquil dark blue deep. It's just so serene; a reason why I love diving so much.

And then to my surprise, we happen to land on a lion fish. This would be the first time I was able to catch James kill one, so I would be lying if there wasn't any adrenaline pumping through my veins. James, using his lion-fish-killing-implement, hooked it. Then, with his other hand, grabbed his metal dowel that he uses to clang for attention, and repeatedly stabs it. One lion fish down!

And that wasn't the only one. By the end of the dive, he must have killed at least 4 of them in similar fashion. We swam along the wall, and finally started to make our way back up to the boat. By the time I was doing my 3 minute safety stop at 15 feet, I had sucked my tank dry - down to 650 psi. It must have been he lion fish hunt, and all the adrenaline, because I usually end with close to 1,000 psi remaining! Still, what a cool dive!

For the second dive, we motored 20 minutes east to Tarpon Alley. During our 50 minute surface interval, we found a dead lion fish floating on the surface - evidence of another dive boat doing its part in the war against this beautiful-yet-deadly reef pest. Soon, a Thestril bird dove in and swooped it up. The lion fish was clearly too big for the bird, as it kept on dropping it. Well of course this caught the attention of 2 other Thestrils. What ensued was aerial ballet, with each fish taking turns picking up the fish, trying to eat it, and then subsequently dropping it. Definitely interesting to watch.

The second dive itself was really quite good. When I first descended to the bottom, I happen to find a green moray eel slithering from one pinnacle of coral to another. Bummed that I couldn't get a good view of the beast, I continued down the reef and was greeted by numerous tarpon. Some were huge - estimates put the larger ones at 50lbs! Nancy then spotted that green moray eel again. This time it's face was sticking out of one whole, and its tail the other. Eels are really cooling creatures: their mouths open, exposing their sharp teeth, as they breathe. It looks like a shit-eating grin! Nancy also spotted a spotted drum: a really tiny zebra striped fish with these long narrow dorsal fins that stick out of its head. A rare and interesting find!
So diving was certainly a success today. Once we got the gear rinsed off and somewhat dry, we brought everything in and headed out to Over the Edge for lunch. Located on the north east part of the island, they serve THEE BEST Cayman fried lobster. It's essentially pan fried lobster meat in this wine sauce, served with a side of mashed potatoes, red beans and rice, and plantains. One of the meals I look forward to every year; it's simply outstanding.

After lunch, we drove over to Rum Point, which is the eastern point separating the north sound and the Caribbean. They have a few restaurants, places to snorkel, water activities like wave runners, etc. I laid out on the beach to work on my tan, while Mom and Nancy went snorkeling. After about an hour and a half, we called it a day and headed back to the condo.

By the time we got back, it was 4:30pm. Dinner was slated for 5:45pm, as Beth Ruhlstone - the older gal who owns the condo building we were staying at - was joining us. I relaxed and read until she arrived, when we all sat out on the deck to enjoy the waning moments of the Cayman sun. I enjoyed a tasty Cuba Libre, and we had tasty bruschetta as an app.

Dinner consisted of rack of lamb with mushroom risotto and asparagus. Delish! Beth surprised us with desert, which consisted of flour-less chocolate cake. Someone give me an insulin injection! It was just a lovely time listening to Beth's stories - she was born and raised on the island - ranging from baby turtles that hatched in her beach, to the days of hurricane Ivan. It was just like dining with my grandmother. Story after story, yet all were captivating!

After dinner, I felt the need to light up the second cigar of my trip: a Bolivar limited edition petite belicoso. It is a full bodied cigar, with great construction and a nice, oily habano

And now I find myself finishing today's post under the stars. Tomorrow will be our annual cookout with James and his family - a little feast we put together to show our appreciation for his services (not to mention settle up the bill). Should be quite a bit to look forward to. Ciao!

Cayman Islands 2011, Day 4

Another day, and yet another greeting at 6:30am by my beloved Spartans. We got the call at 7:00am from James, with the splendid news that we were again going to dive the north wall. A glug of coffee, a tasty egg sandwich, and moments later I was off heading to the yacht club to get my dive day started.

Our dive group changed a slightly from the previous day. The wife of the couple from Toledo took the day off - presumably to spend time with her grandchildren who flew in the day before - and was replaced with the husband's son in law. A nice chap - State grad - who was a joy to dive with. With the troop boarded on the boat, we cast off and headed through the north sound to the dive sites.

The first dive site was Black Coral Forrest, with parameters of 120 feet for 15 minutes. I rolled off the side after donning my gear, and immediately descended to 60 feet of water. Since I was one of the first ones down, I chilled at the bottom until finally James was there. With the group assembled, the fun began. James led us through a narrow, vertical shaft in the coral; roughly 30 feet long and wide enough to fit a single diver. All along the walls were corals, and even a few lobsters. It was the tightest fit I have ever dove into, and brought back memories of spelunking in the caves of Budapest!

At the end of the first tunnel, which emptied out into the wall's edge, I find those in front of me watching James as he whacks a lion fish with his special lion fish killing implement (essentially a fishing rod, shortened, with a huge hook attached to the end). For those of you not aware of the lion fish, they are native to the Pacific, but were believed to have been introduced into the Caribbean when hurricane Andrew destroyed parts of southern Florida (and let the contents of aquariums into the sea). Their dorsal spines are laden with venom, and they are very territorial - meaning they take over parts of the reef from the other fish. They also reproduce like bunnies, making them a definite threat to the native reef ecology. Needless to say, dive masters are instructed to kill on sight.

With the dead lion fish slowly sinking down the wall, a mutton snapper comes in and swallows it whole. So cool! I should also note that, while the scene of James killing the lion fish was cool, it couldn't compare with the beauty of swimming through the end of the tunnel to see the vast emptiness of open water. Then looking down to see the wall slowly start to disappear into the murky deep. It's just so ethereal.

This is what it looks like to peer down the wall!

From coming out of the tunnel, we swam along the wall at about 100 to 120 feet of water. About 20 yards, along the wall, grew many different varieties of black coral - which are uncommon due to Hurricane Ivan. We were then led through an arch in the coral, where I found another large Caribbean lobster, and then up another tunnel (of about the same dimensions) back to around 60 feet. That pretty much ended the first dive, and after a 3 minute safety stop at 15 feet, I was back in bored the boat.

For the second dive, we traveled about 20 minutes from the first dive site to Paradise Reef. Similar to yesterday's second dive, parameters for the second were 50 feet for 30 minutes. In the water, I found 2 lion fish (one was quite large), a small torpedo ray, as well as the usual assortment of reef fish. Not an incredible dive as far as fish sightings are concerned, but still enjoyable.

After diving, I spend most of the day either relaxing, or napping. I finished my book: Clive Cussler's Mediterranean Caper; ran some errands with Bill, including picking up a few more Cubans. And I took a nice 3 hour nap. Nitrogen has really taken its toll on me!

For dinner, our group met up with the Minneapolis dive contingent at Al Fresco, just a few hundred yards from the condo. The 8 of us shared 3 bottles of wine, as well as orders of cracked and marinated conch. I then had potato encrusted grouper with a curry sauce. Along with some vegetables and red beans & rice, it was simply outstanding. I just wish they had more curry sauce for the rice to soak up. It was just a fun meal, full of good conversation and even a few laughs. I am so lucky to be able to dive with such wonderful people; enjoying good food and wine with them is just an added bonus!

After dinner I walked home, fixed myself a Cuba libre (Havana Club and Coke - in my case, Coke Zero), and started blogging. As I finished around 10:30pm, it looks like I am just going to enjoy my mixed drink and watch some lame TV. Such a rough life I live :). Ciao!