Jon Voyage! Guide to Grand Cayman

After seven wonderful outings over the past week, it became clear to me that single restaurant reviews would not be enough to fully convey my thoughts on Grand Cayman. There are quite a few more places to eat on Grand Cayman than the seven that I picked. Furthermore, my posts didn't even scratch the surface on places to stay, or things to do. Therefore, it's only fitting that I collate my thoughts and provide a one-stop shop for those interested in a Cayman vacation to get started. With that, here we go!

Grand Cayman and the Caribbean

As mentioned in an earlier post, Grand Cayman is located south of Cuba, west of Jamaica and east of Mexico's Yucatan peninsula. Being located along the Cayman trench, which serves as the boundary of the Caribbean and North American tectonic plates; the resulting up-swell of nutrient rich water from the ocean depths has facilitated the great diversity in aquatic life that makes Grand Cayman such an excellent scuba diving destination.

Grand Cayman, at a glance

Grand Cayman looks a bit like a pipe wrench laying on its side, with the open end pointing north. Its capital, Georgetown, is situated in the southwest corner of the island, and serves as a hub between the tourist-centric western edge and the more subdued eastern portion. The inland portion of the eastern section of the island is primarily mangrove, with the fringes near the coast being cleared and inhabited. This is contrasted with the western spur, with its trademark seven mile beach. Two roads: West Bay Rd. (closest to the water) and the Esterly Tibbetts Hwy (inland) serve as the primary corridor for condos, shops and restaurants.

General thoughts

The currency of the Cayman Islands is the Cayman Dollar (ISO: KYD, also noted as $1.00 CI), with the official exchange rate as USD 1.22 = KYD 1. You can use American cash on the island, but stores will often round up to USD 1.25 for convenience. Purchasing with American currency will result in receiving Cayman currency back, so make sure you either convert at the airport, or bring lots of small dollar-denominated bills ahead of time to limit how much Cayman change you get stuck with.

Visa and MasterCard are universally accepted across the island, while American Express is accepted at the larger hotels and establishments, but not at all smaller places. Thus, I highly recommend visitors bring a backup Visa/MasterCard if their primary transacting card is an Amex. Take your drivers license/state ID with you, as some places require ID when making a purchase with a card. Passports can be kept locked at your hotel/condo's safe for safekeeping.

Another general consideration is one's proximity to the island's capital, Georgetown. Georgetown has your standard Caribbean duty free shopping and Margaritaville restaurants that attract cruise ship tourists. This may be some people's cup of tea, while some may want to stay well away.

The cruise ship traffic does dictate the town's hustle bustle, so days when seven cruise ships make port means it's going to be a zoo. Furthermore, cruise ships introduce second order effects, such as packing some of the public beaches, sting ray city, etc. Play it safe, and let the cruise ship schedule dictate when you do your island excursions.

For the most part, retail stores close on Sundays. Thus, if you decide to arrive on a Sunday, make reservations for dinner to get you through to Monday.

Transportation

Getting there

Grand Cayman is served by all major U.S. airlines, with flights to major hubs in New York (JFK and Newark), Atlanta, Dallas, Houston, Miami, and Charlotte. Seasonal flights are also offered to select northern hubs, such as Chicago, Detroit and Minneapolis. Internationally, Air Canada serves serves Toronto-Pearson, while British Airways offers a London-Heathrow to Grand Cayman via a stopover in Nassau.

Grand Cayman's main airport is Owen Roberts International Airport (IATA: GCM). As of Spring 2017, a new terminal expansion is underway to help cope with growth in tourism over the years. In the meantime, I highly recommend scheduling your vacation to arrive and depart ANY DAY but Saturday.

I know this limits direct flights, and results in having to connect domestically, but it will make your travel go much smoother. The way GCM works is on a daily basis, each major airline has flights to their primary hubs. On Saturday, in addition to these flights, additional flights to and from seasonal hubs also fly to the island. This results in a situation where customs is choked for arrivals, and check-in and security is packed to the brim for departures. Do yourself a favor, and schedule your flight on any day but Saturday.

One final point to make if one does schedule a connecting flight; please ensure enough time to make the connection. GCM, like many Caribbean airports, only has one runway and not much airport infrastructure in the event of mechanical problems. In fact, if your plane has a mechanical issue, there is a good chance they will have to fly the part in from the mainland. My usual rule of thumb for connecting times are as follows:

• Domestic mainline to domestic mainline/express: between one and two hours, minimum
• Domestic express to domestic mainline: between two and three hours, minimum
• Domestic mainline to international: between two and three hours, minimum
• International to domestic mainline/express: between three and four hours, minimum

I usually vary my connecting windows based on airport and time of the year. For example, if I am connecting through Chicago O'Hare in the winter, which is notorious for weather delays and cancellations, I may up my connecting time to exceed the window mentioned above. One final piece of advice is to plan contingency flights ahead of time before flying. A day before, I usually peruse my carrier's website and note on a piece of paper later connections that I could take in the event that I miss my connection. Having this laid out will greatly aid you when speaking with your airline's customer service desk.

Traveling on the Island

Grand Cayman, as part of the British West Indies and British Commonwealth, drives on the left side of the road. This may seem daunting, but in reality it's nothing to shy away from. Just relax, take your time, and remember that everything is the opposite: entering into a parking lot on the left instead of the right, overtaking/passing on the left,  etc. The primary intersection on the island is the traffic circle, which may compound the daunting feeling. The key is to drive decisively, always drive in the inner lane if you plan on exiting the roundabout after the first exit, and remember that traffic in the roundabout has the right of way.

With that said, renting a car does make a Cayman vacation go much smoother. Here are some car rental agencies on the island:

• Economy Car Rental: +1 345 949-9550
• Andy's: +1 345 949-8111
• Marshall's: +1 345 949-0550

For those who don't want to rent a vehicle, getting from the airport to your lodging can be provided by taxis at the airport. Once you are at your abode, taxis are also an option for your transportation throughout the week. I highly recommend Rita (+1 345 916-8345), but please bear in mind that utilizing taxis throughout the week will add up. Even moderate use may make renting a car the more viable option.

Lodging

Zoom in of Seven Mile Beach

Some general points on lodging before specific recommendations. Travelers to Grand Cayman have the option of both many nice hotels, as well as condo options. When it comes to condos, the rule of thumb is the closer to Georgetown, units are either really nice and really expensive, or not very nice.

That being said, nicer is relative, as even the units far north into West Bay are beautifully equipped with the typical amenities we all come to expect. Regarding hotels, all are beautiful resorts with names people will recognize. My only suggestion is to follow one's frequent traveler affiliation, and to be as far from Georgetown as possible.

Whether staying at a condo or hotel, one does not need to be worried about drinking or brushing teeth with tap water. Water on the island is provided by a central desalination plant, and is completely safe to drink. Given the desalination process, some may find the taste not to their liking. Thankfully, local grocery stores (talked about below) sell a wide variety of bottled spring water. Furthermore, some properties may even have an in-unit water cooler with 3-5 gallon water jug for your convenience.

Condos

• Christopher Columbus Condos: One of the few pre-Ivan condo complexes still around; this thirty unit property offers an incredible value of amenities and location. Units are clean and spacious, overlooking a lovely pool and gazebo situated between the main building and the beach. Complimentary beach cabanas are available to guests, though people get out early to snag them.
• Harbor Heights: Another Ivan survivor, this two-story U-shaped complex has a nice center pool and beautiful stretch of seven mile beach. Located next to the newly developed Kimpton Seafire hotel and resort; one is well away from the hustle bustle of Georgetown, yet within swimming distance of various vacation amenities.
• The Anchorage Condos: Located next to the aforementioned Christopher Columbus, this property is also removed from the traffic and hassle of Georgetown with the same beautiful seven mile beach. Features a lovely pool between the main building at the beach.
• Discovery Point: Located on the other side of Christopher Columbus, this property continues in offering beautiful units, amazing beach and pool facilities, and being remote enough from the downtown craziness.

Hotels

• Ritz Carlton: One of the two ultra premium hotels on the island, the Ritz is located in the heart of seven mile beach. Straddling West Bay Rd., the hotel features both ocean and garden view rooms. Rooms are clean and comfortable, featuring the trademark Ritz Carlton aesthetic, while the abundance of pools and beach space allows guests to relax any way they see fit. It should be noted that most of the units are located on the "garden side" of the hotel complex, which is connected to the beach side by a sky-bridge over West Bay Rd. 
• Kimpton Seafire: The other ultra premium hotel on the island, the Kimpton Seafire is the newest on the island. Located the furthest from Georgetown of the main hotels, the Seafire has an immaculate pool facility and nice beach. Note that next to the Seafire is Tiki Beach and Public Beach, which can draw significant traffic from the cruise ships.
• Westin: One of two premium hotels, the Westin combines all the comforts of its marque: Heavenly beds, Heavenly showers; with ambiance of the islands. For those who want to stay sand and salt free, this property features the largest freshwater pool on the island. 
• Marriott: The other premium hotel on the island, the Marriott is located closer to the hustle-bustle of Georgetown and the other places. Still, this property features a wonderful watersports complex, nice pool, while the inner atrium offers a relaxation pool and plenty of places to relax and take in the island vibe.

Dining

Haute cuisine ($$$$)

• Blue by Eric Ripert (see review): Without a doubt the top restaurant on the island, Blue offers patrons several tasting experience blending traditional techniques with local ingredients. A must for celebrating a special occasion. Reservations expected, and smart attire a must.

Excellent ($$$)

• Luca (see review): An excellent contemporary Italian menu embracing local fish with killer wine list and smart-casual atmosphere. Menu options are reasonable, and specials capture both in-season fare, as well as the whims of Chef Kleinrath. Book and early reservation, and you may be able to grab a few moments of sunset between pre-dinner cocktails and dinner.
• Calypso Grill (see review): The best contemporary Caribbean restaurant on the island, Calypso is a colorful smart-casual establishment located in West Bay at Morgan's Harbor. One cannot go wrong with any of the daily specials on the chalk board. Start with mussels, finish with sticky toffee pudding, and consider this night on lock for a great meal. Reservations required.
• Morgan's (see review): One of the better al fresco restaurants on Grand Cayman, Morgan's specializes in contemporary preparations of local Cayman fish. Also features a nice bar area for pre-dinner cocktails. Somewhat more casual than Calypso Grill, but reservations required.
• Cracked Conch (see review): The more formal restaurant at Macabuca/Cracked Conch, Cracked Conch also embraces the local seafood abundance with a tasty menu featuring daily specials. Slightly more casual than smart-casual, and reservations may be required.
• The Catch (see review): Another excellent al fresco dining experience, the Catch offers a nice outdoor dining ambiance overlooking quaint Morgan's Harbor. The menu offers many local seafood with contemporary preparation.
• Bàcaro: A newer entrant to Cayman's culinary scene, Bàcaro is located adjacent to Morgan's (see above), and features an Italian tapas style menu from the Veneto region of Italy. 

Very good - al fresco dining ($$ - $$$)

• Casanova by the Sea: A more traditional Italian restaurant located on the water in the heart of Georgetown. Casanova offers classic Italian and seafood dishes, accompanied by a harpist on certain evenings.
• Decker's Grille & Lounge: Another local seafood place, Decker's has an incredible Tuesday and Saturday night lobster special: $50 CI gets one unlimited Caribbean lobster tails with mashed potatoes and local seasonal veg.
• Grand Old House: A historic plantation turned waterfront restaurant, Grand Old House serves an inspired seafood menu with excellent wine selection and cigar list.
• The Lobster Pot: One of the local institutions in downtown Georgetown, the Lobster Pot overlooks Georgetown harbor, and offers a nice selection of classic Caribbean fare.
• Ristorante Pappagallo: Italian restaurant located on the far northern tip of Grand Cayman, offering both local seafood and classic Italian stables like veal ossobuco, veal milanesse, etc.
• The Wharf: Delightful waterfront restaurant with an eclectic menu inspired by French, Italian, and local Caribbean dishes. Nightly Tarpon feeding is a great activity for kids and adults alike.

Very good - indoor dining ($$ - $$$)

• Agua (see review): Located within walking distance of some of the top hotels on the island, Agua offers Italian seafood dishes with a nice casual atmosphere.
• Blue Cilantro: Fusing local seafood with flavors from both classical Europe and the Middle East and India, Blue Cilantro offers an abundance of flavors catering just about everyone's flavor palette. Multi-course tasting menus are also available, for those who are feeling more culinary adventurous. Smart casual, with reservations expected.
• Brasserie: Located off the beaten trail in Georgetown, Brasserie may offer one of the best values on the island. On Mondays, $69 CI gets a couple a three course meal plus a bottle of wine.
• Ristorante Ragazzi: Another excellent Italian joint, offering fresh seafood, pastas, and even pizza.

Lunch

• Macabuca: Fun bar/restaurant located on the water front of Cracked Conch, offering burgers, salads, and other pub grub fare. Their Tiki salad with cracked conch is awesome. Also open for dinner, and on Monday's from 5 PM to 10 PM, they offer an all you can eat BBQ for $17 CI.
• My Bar at Sunset House: Excellent place to grab a cold beer and lunch. Their blackened dolphin (mahi mahi) caesar wrap and salad are amazing, as is their conch fritters with creamy jerk mayo.
• Rackam's: Fun waterfront bar in the heart of Georgetown harbor. At night local tarpon gather to feed on the fish scraps from the neighboring fish market.
• The Catch, Calypso Grill, Morgan's (see above): Also open for lunch, with lunch specials that may be more affordable. The food is just the same, and just as good!

Dining in

The grocery stores on Grand Cayman are world class, giving visitors many options depending on their kitchen situation. The two primary grocery stores are Kirk Market and Foster's Food Fair. Note that like most retail, the islands grocery stores are closed on Sundays.

Things to do

Scuba diving

Grand Cayman is considered one of the global diving meccas, being one of first dive locales that commercialized the activity. There are dive sites located around the island, with the majority being located along seven mile beach and the north sound. Seasoned divers should just jump to my operator recommendations. For those who want to get into the sport, I highly recommend doing your pool and classroom work stateside, then schedule your open water certification while you are on Grand Cayman. For those who want a taste before committing to classroom and pool work, a "resort course" provides people the ability to dive up to 40 feet with a instructor, and can be done with any of the operators below.

• DNS Diving: This is the operator I currently dive with; DNS does everything right. Great people, sterling service, and exceptional boats. See previous post for more detailed thoughts.
• Neptune's Divers: This is the operator that I actually did my open-water certification back in 2009. Great people, and eight divers max per boat ensures that the boat is never crowded.
• Living the Dream Divers: While I have never dove with LTD, I have heard great things from divers who have.

Non-diving

Snorkeling is a very popular alternative to scuba diving for those who want to experience the aquatic beauty of Grand Cayman. Snorkel equipment can be rented reasonable at Divers Supply on West Bay Rd. For those who want to snorkel from the beach, here are a couple of beaches with exceptional snorkeling. Just make sure to not leave anything on the beach while you snorkel, as it could be stolen.

• Spotts Beach: located on the southern coast, this beach is renown for its abundance of sea turtles. Best to arrive by 9:30 AM, and not the best on windy days (winds greater than 15 MPH).
• Cemetery Beach: located on West Bay Rd. just north of Condo row, Cemetery Beach offers many of the same reef experiences one gets when scuba diving.
• Four Corners: just north of Cemetery Beach, this stretch of beach boasts exceptional snorkeling as well.

For those who want to do boat snorkeling, Grand Cayman does offer some exceptional charters that won't bust the budget while offering incredible experiences. Furthermore, reef fishing and local attractions such as Stingray City can also be visited via charter. Stingray City -  a sandbar in the middle of the North Sound where hundreds of docile stingrays flock for feeding and petting - is a must-see for those who are visiting Grand Cayman for the first time.

• Cayman Luxury Yachts: Offers different size boats depending on your needs
• George’s Watersports (+1 345 923-7078): Offers a 30 foot center console for charter
• Bayside Watersports: We have used Bayside a few times for deep sea fishing, and had a blast, but they also offer snorkel trips and private charters as well.

A non-charter option to visit Stingray City, Captain Marvin's Stingray City Experience, is a solid operator.

Other fun things to do while on the island include:

• Dolphin Discovery Center: One of two traditional tourist-centered activities on the island, allowing interaction with Dolphins in the water.
• Cayman Turtle Farm: If Spotts beach didn't get your turtle fix satisfuied, check out the Cayman Turtle Farm to get hands-on with these wonderful creatures.
• Cayman Stand-Up Paddle Co. (+1 345 938-4787): This service delivers a paddle board to your hotel/condo, and even provides a free lesson to get you up in no time.
• Kite surfing: For those who kite surf stateside, or are interested in learning, Kite Surf Cayman offers rentals and lessons to get you started or going.