Dinner at SPQR

This week's update takes us back to back to the Western Addition neighborhood, just four blocks north of The Progress on Fillmore Street, to San Francisco's Italian gem: SPQR. SPQR hails its name from the Latin phrase Senātus Populusque Rōmānus (The Roman Senate and People), referring to the government of the ancient Roman Republic. Fun fact: SPQR is still used as an official emblem of the modern-day commune (municipality) of Rome.

Outer façade of SPQR from across Fillmore Street

While SPQR has been open since 2004, Chef Matthew Accarrino has manned the helm since 2010. What's fascinating is that Chef Matthew literally fell in to a career in the culinary arts, when a bad cycling accident eventually forced a career change. Since then, the restaurant has garnered numerous accolades, including a Michelin star every year starting in 2013. Molded by his Italian heritage, personal experience, and classical training; Chef Matthew takes full advantage of what California has to offer... to the point of even taking part in the creation of certain ingredients.

Stepping in the entryway, I am greeted by a long and narrow restaurant with a small dining area in the front, bar area in the middle, and show kitchen in the aft. Dark wood wainscoting and dark wood tables are balanced by off-white walls featuring simple artwork, while a dark brown ceiling featuring can lighting provides an intimate ambiance. For those looking for an al fresco vibe, SPQR does offer a couple of tables outside.

I was seated at a two-top along the right wall, closer to the entryway. After greeted by my server, I took a moment to peruse the rather extensive menu that I believe can change on a daily basis. For the antipasti section, there are thirteen options with an average price of $23. Under the Primi category - featuring various types of pasta dishes - one finds eleven options with an average price of $32. The final category, Secondi, features three larger entreé options with an average price of $51. Of course this does not include any daily specials that the house is offering.

Speaking of the daily specials, after returning my server gave me the low-down on what the house was featuring tonight. The antipasti special: steamed Wagyu beef buns; sounded amazing.  I started with that, followed up with the squid ink spaghetti featuring braised octopus, and followed it up with the Wagyu beef steak topped with cured duck liver. Let the Wagyu feast commence!

Steamed Wagyu beef buns
2017 SPQR. San Francisco, CA

The Wagyu beef buns came out first - Chef's interpretation of the classic Cantonese dish. Substituting for BBQ pork was a filling of Wagyu beef. The two buns were then topped with sliced Wagyu beef, truffle butter and a beef red wine reduction.

The buns themselves were steamed perfectly, demonstrating Chef's versatility. The filing offered a rich beef flavor, bolstered by the sliced beef offering a nice texture foil to the soft bun. Truffle butter adds both richness and flavor diversity in the form of earthy truffle flavor. Finally, the reduction further diversifies the palette with undulating notes of fruit and beef. Simply outstanding.

Squid ink spaghetti, red wine braised octopus
2017 SPQR. San Francisco, CA

Next up is the primi course: squid ink spaghetti featuring red wine braised octopus, mussel 'puttanesca' and black olive crumble. Fun fact: 'puttanesca' literally means in the style of a prostitute. The sauce features tomatoes, olives, capers and garlic.

The pasta was cooked to a perfect al dente. Mussels add briny notes, while the octopus a more subtle saline married with red wine essence. The puttanesca provides bombs of earthy, olive goodness, while the olive crumble adds a nice texture foil to the pasta. Finally, the tomatoes in the sauce do a nice job binding all the flavors together, creating one heck of a pasta course.

Tonight's final dinner course featured a Wagyu beef steak, served with yukon gold potatoes, cured duck liver, garlic paste, mustard green and red wine sauce. The mustard greens were cooked in a little lemon juice and olive oil. It's my guess that the steak was cooked in a sous vide, then finished on a grill.

Wagyu beef, yukon gold potatoes, cured duck liver
2017 SPQR. San Francisco, CA

The beef was perfectly cooked to a rare-medium rare: tender, with subtle grilled undertones. The garlic and duck liver add rich, earthy undertones that both complimented the rich beef, and diversified the flavor profile of the dish. Garlic offering more overt fresh herbaceous flavors, while duck liver more earthy and rich elements. Red wine reduction adds a nice balance of rich wine notes, while the mustard greens offer herbaceous - even slightly bitter - flavors. The end result is a highly decadent, yet incredibly balanced main entreé that serves as an excellent example of steak meeting sophisticated San Francisco culinary artistry. Simply outstanding!

Caramel "budino," pecan, toasted meringue and graham cracker gelato
2017 SPQR. San Francisco, CA

Switching gears to desert, I selected a caramel budino featuring pecan, toasted meringue and graham cracker gelato. Budino is a sweet Italian dish, similar to a custard or pudding, and certainly lived up to that description. Soft and creamy, it reminded me of a flan-type desert. The pecan flavor itself is soft, yet holds up with a nice nutty essence. The meringue was torched, imbuing flavor akin to a marshmallow that has seen just a little smoke. This paired nicely with the graham cracker gelato, transforming the entire dish into a Italian s'more concept. Highly creative, with great flavor; a fitting end to a wonderful meal.

For those looking for a high-end Italian meal without the trappings of a prix fixe menu or a stuffy white tablecloth: look no further than SPQR. The menu is chalk full of options that will be sure to please any palette, and the wine list is just as agreeable. Combine that with excellent service, and a smart casual atmosphere, and it's obvious that Chef Accarrino's acclaimed is well deserved.

Dining date: June 3rd, 2017