Dinner at Il Ridotto

Nearby Burano offers picturesque compositions of color and canals
2017 Burano, Italia

Venice day three featured a delightful mourning tour of the island of Burano, which is located north of Venice, and past Murano in the Venetian lagoon. While predominantly known for its lace work, I was especially captivated by the beautifully colored homes lining the various canals that crisscross the island. For those who are artistically inclined, I highly recommend making a sojourn with camera or sketch pad, and just lose one's self for a few hours.

Burano, with Venice in the background
2017 Burano, Italia

Making our way back to Venice, our next stop was the island of Murano, with its famous glass furnaces stoked by some of the most talented glass craftsmen in the world. Originally in Venice, the glass makers were asked to leave in the 13th Century due to the high risk of fire. Murano had a monopoly on glass production until the 16th century, when trade secrets found their way around Europe.

Losing their monopoly did little to change the perception of Venitian/Murano glass, as artisans on the island still employ centuries-old techniques to this day. Taking a slight tangent: Dale Chihuly worked at the Venini factory in Murano early in his career, where he learned the team technique for blowing glass. This technique would serve as one of the pillars that would define his work. If you are ever in Seattle, you can see one of the largest collections of Chihuly's work at the Chihuly Garden & Glass Museum.

The afternoon took us back to Venice, first for a quick lunch near the hotel, and then to the nearby Arsenale - the former shipyards and armories of the City of Venice - to check out the Biennale di Venezia. Held every odd year, this exhibition transforms the old Venetian arsenal into a giant collection of contemporary visual art. While not my cup of tea - I prefer impressionist and realist works personally - it's a must-see exhibit for those who enjoy contemporary art.

Today's final adventure - the culinary sort - took us a block or two outside of St. Mark's Square to a small restaurant nestled in the Campiello (small square) Santi Filippo E Giacomo called Il Ridotto. Named after the nearby Ridotto Theater, a small Venetian theater that shares a similar sense of size, this nine table restaurant is the passion of Chef Gianni Bonaccorsi who wanted to open a fine dining restaurant. Featuring both five course prix fixe fish and meat menus, as well as a la carte options, Chef Bonaccorsi and his team have been rewarded with a Michelin star since 2013.

Dinner at Venissa

The story on how I came to visit Venissa - the subject of today's review - captures perfectly just how difficult it can be to plan a trip with more than one person,  separated by multiple time zones. When the Madre and I were creating the shortlist of restaurants in Venice for which we wished to visit, I mentioned Venissa as a top choice. Clearly she did more research than I did, because her response was not wanting to dine at a restaurant that required a close to 30 minute water taxi. I agreed, and I figured the subject was closed.

It is possible to get to Venissa via Vaporetto - Venice's water buses. Just
give yourself plenty of time!

Fast forward a few months, to the eve of departing for Italy. Our itinerary had been set, and Venissa was on the list. I gave it no second thought, completely lapsing on the transportation challenges of this restaurant. It appears the Madre did as well.

At our hotel in Venice, we approached the concierge, and inquired on the best way to get to tomorrow's dinner. A blank stare met us, and then the exposition started. Thank goodness we asked the night before, because the trek to Mazzorbo island would require roughly over a half hour on a water taxi. The cost: over one hundred euros... each way. Immediately we remembered why we weren't supposed to have a reservation. What we didn't remember is why we changed our mind?