Dinner at La Speranzina

View overlooking Lake Garda
2017 Villa Cortine Palace. Sirmione, Italia

After a few incredible days in Venice, it was time to begin the wine portion of the trip, and so the Madre and I pulled up the tent stakes and left for nearby Valpolicella. Located north of Verona, and to the east of Lake Garda, Valpolicella is one of the top wine producing regions in Italy. It's signature wine - Amarone - is considered the third piece of the Italian wine triumvirate: Brunello do Montalcino, Barolo, and Amarone.

Courtyard at Le Salette winery
2017 Le Salette. Fumane, Italia

Our destination was the Villa Cortine Palace, an opulent mansion-turned-hotel located at the tip of the Sirmio peninsula - the peninsula that juts into Lake Garda from the southern end. En route we stopped at Le Salette, the first winery on our list, in nearby Fumane. 

Named after the nearby sanctuary that overlooks the valley, Le Salette is a family owned winery with 20 hectares (49.42 acres) within the Valpolicela DOCG. Led by the winemaker's son, the Madre and I took a tour of the winery, and then had a delightful tasting of their portfolio. The tasting also included cheese and selection of salami, and both were outstanding. Just an outstanding visit!

Leaving Le Salette, we made our way to the hotel, and unpacked and relaxed for a couple of hours. As dinner time approached, we made our way into town for dinner at the subject of this restaurant review: La Speranzina. Located on the shores of Lake Garda in the heart of old town Sirmione, La Speranzina takes advantage of wonderful lake views by offering both fine dining, and a three suite inn.

Dinner at Il Ridotto

Nearby Burano offers picturesque compositions of color and canals
2017 Burano, Italia

Venice day three featured a delightful mourning tour of the island of Burano, which is located north of Venice, and past Murano in the Venetian lagoon. While predominantly known for its lace work, I was especially captivated by the beautifully colored homes lining the various canals that crisscross the island. For those who are artistically inclined, I highly recommend making a sojourn with camera or sketch pad, and just lose one's self for a few hours.

Burano, with Venice in the background
2017 Burano, Italia

Making our way back to Venice, our next stop was the island of Murano, with its famous glass furnaces stoked by some of the most talented glass craftsmen in the world. Originally in Venice, the glass makers were asked to leave in the 13th Century due to the high risk of fire. Murano had a monopoly on glass production until the 16th century, when trade secrets found their way around Europe.

Losing their monopoly did little to change the perception of Venitian/Murano glass, as artisans on the island still employ centuries-old techniques to this day. Taking a slight tangent: Dale Chihuly worked at the Venini factory in Murano early in his career, where he learned the team technique for blowing glass. This technique would serve as one of the pillars that would define his work. If you are ever in Seattle, you can see one of the largest collections of Chihuly's work at the Chihuly Garden & Glass Museum.

The afternoon took us back to Venice, first for a quick lunch near the hotel, and then to the nearby Arsenale - the former shipyards and armories of the City of Venice - to check out the Biennale di Venezia. Held every odd year, this exhibition transforms the old Venetian arsenal into a giant collection of contemporary visual art. While not my cup of tea - I prefer impressionist and realist works personally - it's a must-see exhibit for those who enjoy contemporary art.

Today's final adventure - the culinary sort - took us a block or two outside of St. Mark's Square to a small restaurant nestled in the Campiello (small square) Santi Filippo E Giacomo called Il Ridotto. Named after the nearby Ridotto Theater, a small Venetian theater that shares a similar sense of size, this nine table restaurant is the passion of Chef Gianni Bonaccorsi who wanted to open a fine dining restaurant. Featuring both five course prix fixe fish and meat menus, as well as a la carte options, Chef Bonaccorsi and his team have been rewarded with a Michelin star since 2013.

Dinner at Venissa

The story on how I came to visit Venissa - the subject of today's review - captures perfectly just how difficult it can be to plan a trip with more than one person,  separated by multiple time zones. When the Madre and I were creating the shortlist of restaurants in Venice for which we wished to visit, I mentioned Venissa as a top choice. Clearly she did more research than I did, because her response was not wanting to dine at a restaurant that required a close to 30 minute water taxi. I agreed, and I figured the subject was closed.

It is possible to get to Venissa via Vaporetto - Venice's water buses. Just
give yourself plenty of time!

Fast forward a few months, to the eve of departing for Italy. Our itinerary had been set, and Venissa was on the list. I gave it no second thought, completely lapsing on the transportation challenges of this restaurant. It appears the Madre did as well.

At our hotel in Venice, we approached the concierge, and inquired on the best way to get to tomorrow's dinner. A blank stare met us, and then the exposition started. Thank goodness we asked the night before, because the trek to Mazzorbo island would require roughly over a half hour on a water taxi. The cost: over one hundred euros... each way. Immediately we remembered why we weren't supposed to have a reservation. What we didn't remember is why we changed our mind?

Dinner at Ristorante Quadri

The first day on any vacation that requires substantial travel is usually pretty rough, and this one was no exception. My trek to Italy was by way of Boston and Newark, and consisted of two back-to-back red eye flights. Despite the fact that I actually slept the entire duration of the San Francisco to Boston leg, by the time I landed at Venice's Marco Polo International Airport, I was a shattered man.

A brief water taxi from the airport took me directly to my hotel - the lovely Hotel Luna Baglioni - where I rendezvous with my Mother who was my partner in crime for this trip. I immediately crashed on the bed for a few hours, waking up just in time for lunch. A brief stroll took us to Trattoria alla Rivetta, a busy little eatery recommended to us by a foodie friend of Mother's. After lunch, we continued to walk around St. Mark's Square, but rain prodded us to head back to the hotel. This allowed me to take yet another nap, and soon it was time to head to dinner. Tonight we would be checking out Ristorante Quadri, located in St. Mark's Square.

Wrapping up this trip to Seattle at Pike Place Market

The morning of Day 3 started off really slowly, as I hydrated to offset the overindulgence of last night's restaurant and bar selection. Originally, Monday morning was slated for relaxation before heading to the airport. That of course changed when I opted to spend Saturday morning watching Michigan State football, forcing me to delay my visit of Pike Place Market to this trip's final morning.

Pike Place at dusk where Pike Street meets 1st Avenue
2017 Pike Place Market. Seattle, WA

Pike Place Market (not to be confused with Pike's Place roast from Starbucks) is located at the intersection of Pike Street and First Avenue in downtown Seattle. First opened in 1907, the market is one of the oldest public markets still in use today. With its trademark sign (pictured above), it also happens to be one of Seattle's most visited attractions, with millions of tourists annually.

Dinner at Cascina Spinasse (followed by drinks at Cannon)

When planning the average 'Bartcation,' restaurant selection usually requires the most effort. First there is standard research on what restaurants are good, leveraging typical web sources. Of course there is consultation with the Holy Bible of haute cuisine at early stages of preparation in order to make reservations feasible. If I am lucky, I may have like-minded foodies who live or have visited at the target locale that I may reach out to (for either suggestions, or verification of such).

Once I have narrowed it down to a short list, my criteria usually focuses on highlighting local ingredients, or places that represent the apex of a region's gastronomic specialty. Examples include visiting: Tadich Grill in San Francisco for their legendary cioppino; Vancouver's Blue Water Cafe for incredible Pacific Northwest seafood; or someplace as simple as Katz's Deli in New York for classic corned beef.

And yet, there are times when I pick a place that resonates with me because of other factors. Case in point was selecting tonight's dinner at Cascina Spinasse. Led by Chef Stuart Lane; "his team creates simple, refined dishes grounded in authentic techniques from Piedmont, while incorporating the products of artisans and small farmers from the Pacific Northwest." As it turns out, I was just getting geared up for a trip to Italy in the end of September, with a week in Piedmont. Whether it was coincidence, or divine providence that dropped a restaurant offering both a glimpse of my future travels along with highlighting local ingredients; I made the reservation and that was it.

Geeking out at the Museum of Flight (in between meals of course!)

The morning of Day 2 started off very slowly, as I hydrated in an effort to offset the indulgences at the previous evening's dinner at Canlis. The plan for Day 2 in Seattle consists of spending the morning at the Museum of Flight, followed by lunch at Lola, and an afternoon at the Seattle Art Museum. The evening's dinner venue - Italian restaurant Spinasse - will be featured in an upcoming post.

Dinner at Canlis

Few restaurants have a monopoly on their city's top echelon dining like Seattle's Canlis. That's not to say Seattle is devoid of really good restaurants; far from it. Seattle dining is fabulous, with an abundance of fresh seafood that restaurants in many other cities would kill for. Nevertheless, when people think of haute cuisine in Seattle, they think of Canlis. And as I would soon come to find out, for very good reasons.

'Almost perfect cocktail' - Canlis' take on a Manhattan
2017 Canlis. Seattle, WA

Opened in 1950 by Peter Canlis - the patriarch of the family - the restaurant has been family run ever since. In that time, additional restaurants were opened in Honolulu, Portland and Seattle, but none survive to this day. Meanwhile, the original and flagship restaurant in Seattle has continued to inspire ever since, with Twenty one consecutive Wine Spectator Grand Awards, along with a Michelin star, as its bona fides.

A Seattle afternoon through rose-colored Chihuly glasses

In the days leading up to this trip to Seattle, the original plan for Day 1 was checking off some of the Emerald City's more touristy offerings. More specifically, Pike Place market in the morning, Chihuly Garden and Glass in the afternoon, and a killer lunch/brunch in between. This all changed when I finally got connected with the Michigan State alumni group in Seattle, and found out there was a football game-watch at LTD Bar and Grill at 9AM. Being the good MSU football fan that I am, Pike Place market got bumped to Monday morning, and I made the trek up to the Fremont neighborhood to cheer on my Green and White. On the way North on Aurora Avenue, I caught a glimpse of Canlis: the subject for tonight's dinner post.

Thankfully MSU won, and I was able to depart for lunch in a good mood. Today's lunch location is a small bistro located just on the outer fringes of Seattle Center (think Space Needle, Chihuly museum, etc.) called Tilikum Place Cafe (TPC). Best known for brunch, including their famous Dutch baby pancakes that are made to order, patrons are treated to a light and airy space sporting huge windows that offers a bit of a reprieve from the nearby tourist mayhem. TPC offers reservations, and I suggest you make them, as the place fills up fast.

Dinner at Matt's in the Market (and first night in Seattle)

This post not only reviews a delightful restaurant in Seattle's iconic Pike Place Market, but also kicks off a series of posts centering on my second solo excursion to the Pacific Northwest. The first was last year's trip to Vancouver and Victoria, British Columbia. This year I opted to stay south of the 49th parallel, and visit lovely Seattle, Washington. Speaking with a few college friends, I was directed to visit in late summer for optimal weather. Labor Day was free, so I booked a flight and an AirBnB, and the rest is history.

View from Matt's: dusk over the sound and Bainbridge Island
2017 Matt's in the Market. Seattle, WA 

Dinner at Californios

Growing up in Holland (MI), the idea of gourmet cuisine was pretty much relegated to whatever one could prepare at home. Even then, the menu was limited to what one could find at the local grocer. Upscale markets in nearby Grand Rapids, while offering the vast majority of missing ingredients for whatever Thomas Keller or Mario Batali cookbook one was using; asking for oxtail and other such ingredients was still a tall ask.

That's not to say Holland was devoid of good food. Local Dutch bakeries still churn out an incredible breakfast (Saucijzenbroodjes - Dutch sausage rolls - for the win!), and the local butchers offer some incredible meats that perfectly embrace the long summer outings by the grill. The sizable Hispanic population has also led to some excellent Mexican restaurants, with Taco Fiesta holding a special place in my heart growing up. 

Prior to dining at Californios, my experience with Mexican food was consistent with my upbringing. Platters of home made tacos, chile rellenos, asado de puerco con salsa verde and tamales. All accompanied with refried beans and yellow hued rice. I wouldn't call it greasy spoon food, but it certainly stuck to one's ribs, and it was/is darn good. 

The idea of a Mexican restaurant offering a tasting menu was completely foreign to me. Rick Bayless' Topolobampo offers a Mexican tasting menu, but over the years the family could never seem to get reservations when we would visit Chicago. After dining at Californios, I now know why it's so popular still to this day!

The slate gray exterior of Californios on 22nd Street in
San Francisco's Mission neighborhood

Dinner at RASA

Today's post takes us south of my usual gastronomic stomping grounds of San Francisco, to the suburb of Burlingame. Located there, on Park Rd. in the quaint downtown, is the subject of today's review: RASA. Opened in November 2014, RASA has become one of the top Indian restaurants in the Bay Area, through the combination of pan-Indian dishes and the finest - most sustainable - local produce. The approach may be painstaking for Chef Vijay Kumar, but the results speak for themselves as RASA has earned a Michelin star in 2016 and 2017.

Outer signage at RASA - Contemporary Indian

Dinner at State Bird Provisions

There are few places in the western hemisphere that have the quality and quantity of dim sum like the Bay Area. San Francisco has - after all - one of the largest and oldest Chinese enclaves outside of Asia. Thus, it's fitting that a restaurant creating 'American dim sum' should be found in this city by the Bay. What wasn't a foregone conclusions was just how popular State Bird Provisions would come to be. It's truly a testament to the ingenuity of Chefs/owners Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski for creating one of the hardest reservations in a city featuring some of America's top restaurants.

Outside of State Bird Provisions (right) and The Progress (left) on Fillmore St.

Dinner at Gary Danko

This edition takes us to one of San Francisco's culinary stalwarts that has dazzled guests with its delights for close to two decades: Restaurant Gary Danko. Located in the annoyingly touristy Fisherman's Wharf neighborhood, the restaurant carries its owner's and executive chef's namesake, and both are institutions in San Francsico's culinary scene. Chef Gary Danko's mantra is to pair classical French cooking with the local bounty that California provides.

Outside of Restaurant Gary Danko, at the corner of Hyde and North Point St.

Dinner at SPQR

This week's update takes us back to back to the Western Addition neighborhood, just four blocks north of The Progress on Fillmore Street, to San Francisco's Italian gem: SPQR. SPQR hails its name from the Latin phrase Senātus Populusque Rōmānus (The Roman Senate and People), referring to the government of the ancient Roman Republic. Fun fact: SPQR is still used as an official emblem of the modern-day commune (municipality) of Rome.

Outer façade of SPQR from across Fillmore Street

While SPQR has been open since 2004, Chef Matthew Accarrino has manned the helm since 2010. What's fascinating is that Chef Matthew literally fell in to a career in the culinary arts, when a bad cycling accident eventually forced a career change. Since then, the restaurant has garnered numerous accolades, including a Michelin star every year starting in 2013. Molded by his Italian heritage, personal experience, and classical training; Chef Matthew takes full advantage of what California has to offer... to the point of even taking part in the creation of certain ingredients.

Dinner at Lord Stanley

This edition of Jon Voyage! takes us to Lord Stanley, a little Californian-European inspired restaurant located in the 'Polk Gulch' neighborhood of San Francisco. This is essentially part two of my Memorial Day 2017 foodie-focused weekend, having checked out Mister Jiu's the night before.

To be more specific, the 'Polk Gulch' is an informal name of the neighborhood consisting of Polk Street, between Geary in the infamous Tenderloin neighborhood, and Union Street in the Russian Hill neighborhood. This strip is teaming with excellent bars (Lush Lounge, Hi-Lo Club, The Rusted Mule), and great eateries (Aquarello, Swan Oyster Depot). On the corner of Polk and Broadway sits Lord Stanley, its large Broadway street-facing windows allowing a glimpse of its culinary delights for those walking by.

Lord Stanley is the brainchild of co-chefs/owners Rupert and Carrie Blease. Before they took the plunge in restaurant ownership, their culinary odyssey took them to such acclaimed establishments as Thomas Keller's New York bastion Per Se, two Michelin starred UK stalwart The Restaurant at Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons, and local San Francisco establishments like The Commonwealth. Per Lord Stanley's website, their goal is to "[offer] simple yet refined cuisine with European influences served in a casual, friendly atmosphere." The results have spoken for themselves, including back to back Michelin stars in 2016 and 2017. Being all for refined cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere, I used the Memorial Day weekend as an excuse to see the magic first hand!

Dinner at Mister Jiu's

Tonight's edition takes us to the San Francisco's iconic Chinatown neighborhood - the oldest such enclave in North America, and the largest outside of Asia - to call upon the swank eatery Mister Jiu's. Opened in the Spring of 2016, Chef Brandon Jew (Bar Agricole, Quince, Zuni) has set out on a mission to offer traditional Chinese flavors with a modern approach. Working with Chef Brandon is notable pastry Chef Melissa Chou, previously of Aziza and Mouroud, and nominated for the James Beard award for outstanding pastry chef. This duo, along with the rest of the kitchen staff, have done incredible things in their first year, including earning their first Michelin star.

Dinner at The Progress

Tonight's outing takes us to San Francisco's Western Addition, located just west of the Civic Center area / Van Ness Avenue. On Fillmore street, in the heart of this neighborhood, lies two of San Francisco's top restaurants: State Bird Provisions, and - the topic of this post - The Progress.

Outside of The Progress and State Bird Provisions
2017 San Francisco, CA

The Progress is a New American restaurant featuring a family style format. The menu features three set starters, followed by fourteen options broken into two groups of seven that differentiate between lighter and heavier fare. For $62 per person, guests are asked to select four dishes for the table from the fourteen. Additionally, the menu includes four options guests can add to their meal that are seasonal in nature. Dishes are then served scaled up for the size of the party.

Dinner at Al's Place

Tonight's culinary adventure takes back to San Francisco's Mission district, a couple blocks southwest of Mission landmark la Taqueria, to Chef Aaron London's New American restaurant: Al's Place. Sporting a corner location, the eatery sports a beautiful blue outer façade and even a make-shift al fresco dining area on the 26th street side. Stepping inside the establishment, one enters the dining area, with only a little desk suggesting reception.

Al's Place outer facade on the corner of Valencia and 26th St.

The interior of the long and decent-sized dining area sports a delightful palette of white/off-white walls, light wood accent, and white tile wainscoting. Accenting this was various pieces of artwork, adding necessary color and an artistic flare to complete the walls. Near where the ceiling met the walls, a ledge had been built to hold various plants - their green again added a nice diversity of color to the visual aesthetic.

Dinner at Rooh

Tonight's culinary adventure takes us to a relatively new addition to the San Francisco culinary scene: Rooh. At the helm of this contemporary Indian restaurant is Chef Sujan Sarkar, who was awarded Times Chef of the Year in India. Chef Sarkar's goal is to take his guests on a gastronomical journey pairing flavors across India with the bounty available in California.

Rooh is located in the South Beach neighborhood of downtown San Francisco, only a few blocks away from AT&T Park. In fact, something to consider if one wants to visit during baseball season; the area backs up considerably when the San Francisco Giants play home games. The restaurant is located on the ground level of a renovated warehouse building.

Interior of Rooh from my table
2017 Rooh. San Francisco, CA

The renovated warehouse provides a nice space for its proprietors to work with. It's high, open ceilings offer a nice balance to the long and narrow space. Walking through the front door, one enters into a small reception area featuring a small desk as host station. From there, the dining room flanks both sides of the premises, with the left featuring a few tables along the outer wall and large array of two-top tables that can be combined for larger groups.

The right side of the dining room, again along the front all, features several two-tops situated parallel with the outer wall. Along the inner wall, a bar area dominates the space, offering  high-top seating  for those looking for a bit more casual element.

The color palette of the restaurant is fresh and vibrant, yet not to an obnoxious extent. Chairs are of a nice green leather, while the fabric of the bench seats along the walls are a delightful canary yellow. Tables are of a darker wood, with legs of lighter wood. Finally, accents of curtains in reds, along with lighter tans of the ceiling piping, offer nice color accents that really round out the space.