Day 2: Firenze, IT
Saturday, October 3, 2010 at 5:03pm
Waking up after a perfect day can be daunting, and it certainly was this morning. The coffee helped - damn it is good coffee - and soon I was in the Mercedes Benz van heading to Chianti.
Chianti, for those unfamiliar, is a whole region of Tuscany towards the south seperating Firenze with Sienna. It is there that the various types of Chianti are produced. Chianti Classico - probably the most prized of the varieties - is a combination of at least 80% sangiovesse, and two other italian grapes (their names escape me at this time).
Today started with driving up some God-forsaken road up a small mountain, the top of which had a little community and chapel, circa 1000 A.D., that originally served as housing for people who worked at the nearbye Benedictine monastery's vineyards and olive groves. Inside the small chapel was a beautiful fresco painted by the school whose master was that who taught Michaelangelo! Just so beautiful, and humbling to think what took an effort by car to get to was built completely by hand!
After the trek down the mountain, we made it over to a small medievil village where Sylvio (our guide) knew of a small Chianti Classico producer, and arranged for a little tasting. We tasted the 2005, 06 and 07, with the 07 being the best. The tasting area - a little section next to the house covered with a vine arbor roof, overlooked the small town and valley. It is the middle of the harvest, so there was lots of family and friends hustling and bustling about. The Mama made a ton of pizza margharita - basil, olive oil, tomato sauce, and cheese - that they gladly shared with us. I was happy to oblige! Our group then did some credit card damage, buying 30 bottles, and then we were on our way.
Our next stop was at another small medievil community, with a prominant church, situated right on the Firenze-Sienna boarder (which made it a considerable strategic importance given the feuding nature of these two great city-states). The church, being 900 years old, is situated on an old Eutruscan pagan temple, with a few of the columns still standing. The inside was again full of frescos by the same workshop as those mentioned before. Today, the church was being set up for a wedding. All I know is that I would have to find someone infinitely special to warrant saying vows in that venue!
Conveniently, the family who takes care of the church was also our hosts for lunch. Luciana, the Mama, and Giovanna, the grandma, had a tremendous spread for us today. Fusili pasta with red sause, followed by wild boar with olive sauce, and pheasant (which the husband just hunted yesterday!) and green beans in a red wine sauce. They kept on dishing more food, and soon I was just stuffed. Of course there was desert, comprising of a kind of torta, cheese with marmalade, and a Italian desert wine a little sweeter than muscato.
The family was so very friendly and hospitable. The son, Fernando, spoke a little English, so we asked him how school was and how calcio (football/soccer) was going. Just a true joy to share a bit of Italian life with such kind people.
Afterwards, it was straight to a cafe for an espresso to calm that culinary monstrosity down, followed by touring of another medievil city. The final stop of our tours with Sylvio led us to his friend Carlo, who ran a small olive oil production. His house is located on top of a bluff, overlooking two valleys - one of which is flanked by a castle! We proceeded to taste two types of oil: regular, and lemon infused (he actually presses lemon zest with the olives, imparting a nice lemon essence perfect for fish, vegetables, etc.). The tasting table, which overlooked the castle, was truly breathtaking! The oil was great too... We must have bought 20 litres among the group!
That sadly ended our two days with Sylvio, who is probably the best guide I have ever experienced. His style is that of true Tuscan life, and when you are sitting at the table with a family that welcomes you in, you feel it!
Dinner tonight was delightful at Gustavino, a block away from the Uffizi. I had pasta with a red deer, chocolate, and cheese ragu, followed by sirloin and garlic potatoes. Molto bono! On the way back we stopped for gelato (I love the hazelnut flavor!) and did some nice people watching (lots of fine Italian talent roaming the streets hehe). Back at the hotel, I lit up a Trinidad Fundadores habano, and drank a Laphroaig 10 year single malt. Thanks to Jessica and cousin Michael, I got game updates. What a game against Wisconsin; almost sad I missed it. Almost.
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