Dinner at La Ciccia

For this edition of Weekend by the Bay, I decided to put down the Michelin Red Guide and try a place off the beaten trail. After doing a little research, I settled on a cozy little eatery in the Noe Valley (pronounced Noey, or Noë) neighborhood of San Francisco called La Ciccia.

La Ciccia - or "the flab" if literally translated in Italian - is actually an Italian term of endearment (think "Ciao Ciccio/Ciccia"). And endearment is just what this place is going for, as this neighborhood gem is just wide enough for a 6 person bar on one side, and two banks of tables on the other. Walls are painted a beautiful olive green, while the art adorning the walls every now and then evokes the feeling of olives growing in the countryside of Sardinia.


Even before walking into the establishment, the smell of sautéed garlic and onion was that welcoming hug a loved one gives at the door step before welcoming you in to their abode. This inviting atmosphere continued as we were seated, and started to peruse the menu. Various staff offered help and suggestions on the menu in between delivering plates of steaming pastas to other guests, after a few glimpses of what the kitchen provided, our selections were made.

I decided to start with a bowl of the baby octopus stew in spicy tomato sauce. This would then be followed up with a bowl of Sardinian fregula with sea urchin, tomato sauce, and topped with shaved tuna heart. For the main course, I selected the seared lamb tenderloin tagliata, drizzled with Saba (also called defrutum), and served with cauliflower and other mixed vegetables.

Baby octopus stew with spicy tomato sauce
2017 La Ciccia. San Francisco, CA

First up to bat was a bowl of baby octopus stew with a spicy tomato sauce. Overtop was drizzled fresh pesto, which really lent a nice visual aesthetic to the deep red stew. The octopus itself was perfectly tender, with subtle saline qualities, yet an overall meaty flavor profile. This complimented the tomato sauce perfectly, whose spicy notes paired nicely with the canvas that was the octopus. The pesto drizzle rounded everything out, by lending bursts of fresh herb and garlic notes. This dish would be absolutely perfect on a cold winter day back east, in a similar manor to a great cioppino.

Up next was a middle pasta course: sea urchin fregula with tomato sauce, topped with shaved tuna heart. Honestly, this dish is the sole reason why I picked La Ciccia for the evening. I love sea urchin, love Italian food, so the combination of the two must be extraordinary. Boy was I not wrong!

Sea urchin fregula with tomato sauce and shaved tuna heart
2017 La Ciccia. San Francisco, CA

After taking a picture and reflecting on the dish as presented, our server recommended that we mix everything up to combined the flavors. With that done, I took a few bites and marveled at the flavors. The sea urchin provides for that beautiful orange color, while imparting a nice saline flavor and creamy texture. The fregula -  small pasta that you find in traditional Italian Wedding soup, and is very similar to couscous in middle eastern and Mediterranean cooking - does a nice job of binding the ingredients to form cohesive bites. Finally, the shaved tuna heart was just fantastic. It imbued a salty, savory quality to the dish akin to the inclusion of pancetta or bacon, which really rounded out the dish's flavor presentation. Simply fantastic!

Seared lamb tenderloin tagliata, served with saba drizzle
2017 La Ciccia. San Francisco, CA

The final entrée for the evening was seared lamb tenderloin tagliata, served with saba drizzle and some vegetables. The lamb was perfectly cooked, with a nice pink center and juicy mouth-feel, as well as just the amount of salt to really let the flavor of the lamb pop. This paired nicely with the saba drizzle, which yielded complimentary flavors of currant and other fruit characteristic of a sweet fruit forward red wine. Finally, rounding out the dish was a nice helping of vegetables (the only one I can remember was cauliflower), which offered a nice contrast to the lamb to balance out the dish.

Before switching gears to desert, I feel the need to mention the lovely bottle of wine that accompanied this fabulous meal. Given my recent Amarone kick, I opted for a bottle of the 2011
Speri "Vigneti Monte Sant’Urbano" Amarone della Valpolicella classico. A fabulous wine, it paired nicely with the flavorful seafood dishes and lamb, alike.

 Fresh spaghetti with garlic, Calabrian chile, and fish roe
2017 La Ciccia. San Francisco, CA
Credit to Katie P. for the photo.

Also, I had the luxury of being accompanied by one of my fellow Michigan State friends for this evening. We shared bites of our various dishes, not to mention most of the sea urchin pasta because it was so rich, and I would be remiss if I didn't remark on her main pasta course. She ordered fresh spaghetti with garlic, Calabrian chilies, and fish roe. Like any serious Italian restaurant, the pasta was home made and cooked to a perfect al dente. Garlic and chilies provided a nice explosion of flavor, complimented nicely by the briny qualities of the fish roe. It was excellent, and a reminder that I need to make a return call to check some of their other pasta dishes (I am looking at you, linguine in squid ink!).

Sardinian ricotta and saffron cake with honey and almonds
2017 La Ciccia. San Francisco, CA

To wrap up this wonderful evening, I selected something different from the desert menu. A Sardinian ricotta and saffron cake with honey and almonds. The ricotta offered a nice blend of creamy and crumbly elements, influced ever so slightly by saffron undertones. The honey provided the sweet element, while the almonds rounded out the dish by providing earthy undertones. Overall, not too sweet, with an undulating texture and great balance of flavor.

Overall, La Ciccia reminds me of a classic Manhattan neighborhood Italian restaurant. It's cozy, with maybe enough seats for 30-40 patrons. The staff bend over backwards to assist you with their authentic Sardinian-Italian menu, as well as the sizable wine list. Finally, the kitchen follows the hospitality through with an experience that takes one from this corner of San Francisco, all the way to the wonderful island of Sardinia. A killer date restaurant that will not break the bank, but impress your significant other nonetheless; La Ciccia is an absolute gem that deserves a visit.

Dinning date: April 1st, 2017