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Sunday, April 30, 2017

Dinner at Terrapin Creek Cafe

This week's gastronomic adventure took a slightly different turn, as I decided to forego San Francisco and head north to California's wine country. I had the privilege of having an excellent Latin American-inspired lunch at Guiso Latin Fusion in Healdsburgh, CA. This was book-ended by tastings at two wineries, Donum Estate in Carneros, and Arista Winery in the Russian River Valley. You can read more about this in an upcoming post; what I wanted to focus on here is the capstone for the day: dinner at Terrapin Creek Cafe.


Terrapin Creek Cafe is located about an hour and a half north of San Francisco, in a sleepy town along the Pacific coast called Bodega Bay. The restaurant itself is located on the northern outskirts, in a small little agglomeration of businesses where Eastshore drive meets California Highway 1. Walking in to Terrapin Creek Cafe, one is greeted to a small reception area flanked to the right by the open kitchen. The reception area is only a few square feet in area, and quickly transitions to the main dining room, of which the kitchen overlooks around two thirds of.

The main dining room itself is broken down into two parts, separated by a half wall  that provides for tables on either side. The middle itself is open, allowing people and staff to seamlessly transverse the main space. On the opposite side of the half wall from the entrance is located a seatless-bar where the restaurant's beverage service is managed. Along the far wall, in the center overlooking the separation between the two dining areas, is a sizable hearth that I imagine puts out quite the cozy vibe on a dreary winter day. Walls are painted a beautiful marigold color, while the ceiling and tables are a crisp white.

I was led through the center cut-out, and to the left to find a two-top adjoining the center half-way. Seated, I was greeted by a kind but slightly curt server who was definitely all business. I perused the menu, and settled on fresh local Miyagi oysters to start, pan roasted Hokkaido scallops, and Liberty Farms duck breast to close out the dinner courses. Pairing with the duck, I selected a glass of the WesMar 2013 Russian River Pinot Noir.

Local Miyagi oysters with shallots and fennel mignonette
2017 Terrapin Creek Cafe. Bodega Bay, CA
The first course of tonight's meal was really just an excuse to try some of the local oysters. The whole region, including Tamales Bay, is known for its fresh seafood, so when in Rome. Tonight, these oysters were served with a shallot and fennel mignonette. The oysters themselves were sizable, with nice butter and crisp saline notes. The vinegar in the mignonette provided the necessary acid to coax both the oyster, and fennel and shallot flavors to pop. Truly a nice start!

Pan roasted Hokkaido scallops
2017 Terrapin Creek Cafe. Bodega Bay, CA
Next up to bat was a plate of pan roasted Hokkaido scallops, served with roasted maitake mushrooms, smoked potatoes, and onion purée. By themselves, the scallops were excellent size, and cooked perfect so that the center was just barely opaque. They offered rich buttery flavors, with just that pleasant hint of brine. The maitake mushrooms paired perfectly, yielding nice earthy tones and another texture to the dish's ensemble. The potatoes provided a nice starchy base for this dish, transporting the delightful onion purée, while also lending subtle smoke undertones. Greens lent herbal flavors, while offering contrasting textures, and the onion purée offered both a creamy texture, as well as subtle onion and white wine flavor. All in all, everything was well balanced, resulting in an outstanding starter course.

Duck breast
2017 Terrapin Creek Cafe. Bodega Bay, CA
Tonight's main course was duck breast, served with shiitake mushrooms, fingerling potatoes, sautéed cabage and duck jus. Receiving the plate, I first noticed that the duck was cooked a little more than the medium rare that I had asked. Taking a bite, it was still tender and juicy, so it did not warrant a return to the kitchen. It should be noted that my server did ask if I wanted to return it, and was more than accommodating. The server's demeanor may have been all business, whereas I am the type to get chatty, but there was no doubt that he is a pro with great pride in his restaurant.

With that being said, the duck was excellent. The breast meat was rich and flavorful, with a nice skin and fat cap that was trimmed to provide just the necessary amount of richness to each piece. Sitting underneath the duck was the cabbage, mushrooms, and fingerling potatoes. Mushrooms offered earthy flavors, while the cabbage really helped provide a nice texture differential. The cabbage and potatoes furthermore soaked up the delightful duck jus, helping spread that wonderful rich duck flavor throughout the dish. I think, but could totally be wrong, that the duck jus also had a savory component as well. Miso, or perhaps soy, yielded nice savory notes that balanced the richness of the duck, and earthy tones of the mushrooms.

I specifically paired my glass of Pinot Noir for this dish, and I was not disappointed. This 2013 Russian River Pinot Noir from WesMar offered a nice balance of nice cherry and currant fruit notes, with hints of soil and earth that complimented the various flavors of the duck entrée.

Sourdough bread pudding
2017 Terrapin Creek Cafe. Bodega Bay, CA
Tonight's desert and final course was sourdough bread pudding, featuring toasted pear and other fresh fruit. I opted for this dish because, after a day of wine tasting and good food, I was hoping for something on the fresh and lighter side. The kitchen did not disappoint, as this sourdough bread pudding hit the sweet notes on my palette without leaving me reeling.

The sourdough itself was interesting, with a complex array of flavors from doughy butter, to that signature edge imparted from the sourdough starter culture. The fresh fruit offered just enough sweetness without the need for a ton of added sugar, while the toasting of the pear provided subtle smokey undertones. Whipped cream added a creamy element, while the nut garnish added a nice texture twist to the soft consistency of the bread pudding.

Overall, there is nothing better than an excellent meal in a sleepy coastal town outside of the hustle bustle of the city. Time seems to move slower, allowing one to truly savor the bites in front of them. The folks at Terrapin Creek Cafe certainly understand this phenomenon, and take full advantage by assembling a menu where comfort food meets a sophisticated quilt of flavors and textures. Aside from my duck being slightly overcooked - which in no way diminished the offering - everything was top notch. The service, while slightly different from what I prefer, was still impeccable and offered a great dining experience. Terrapin Creek Cafe's cuisine beckons one to make the drive for a visit. And if you already find yourself visiting the Sonoma Coast, consider yourself lucky to have this special place close bye.

Dining date: April 15th, 2017

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