Lunch at la Taqueria

Johan Bartolomew's 1st law of gastronomy states that all Michelin starred restaurants are great, but not all great restaurants are Michelin starred. Franklin BBQ in Austin, Oklahoma Joe's in KC; none being featured in this year's Red Guide, but I dare anyone to say those places and their craft are not amazing. The fact that people wait outside Franklin BBQ in the wee hours of the night, hopping to snag a few slices of brisket the following morning before they run out, is a testament to their greatness.

Similar can be said for pizza places in New York and Chicago, and Mexican food throughout the American West. One of San Francisco's contributors in the Mexican food department is la Taqueria, located in the vibrant-yet-grungy Mission district. La Taqueria is a bit of an institution, providing its tasty Mexican fare since 1973, and in the process generating some pretty impressive lines (especially on the weekends). Claiming "America's Best Burrito" in a 538.com burrito bracket challenge certainly has not helped.

Thankfully, la Taqueria is an efficient operation. After winding through the medium sized restaurant in line, one is greeted by a very lovely lady who takes your order. From there, it's a short wait to the cash register, where payment is rendered. After that, find a place to stand and wait until your order is called so you can claim your hard-fought goods.

The first thing I would like to point out is that la Taqueria only takes cash. Please do not wait until the last minute before seeing one of the dozen signs saying cash only, before having to leave the line and find an ATM. If you are lucky, the people behind you may let you run to the restaurant's ATM for a quick solution. Otherwise, it's back to square one. Just bring it with you ahead of time.

The second is regarding seating. If the line didn't forewarn you, seating will be tight. That being said, because the kitchen is so efficient, and patrons are so eager to scarf down their food; tables open up just as fast as they are taken. Pro tip: if you are visiting with others, have someone snag a table while the others order in line. 

The restaurant itself is a medium-sized joint, with a large central dining area adjacent to the counter where orders are taken, and these delicacies are crafted. On the periphery walls, one can find two-tops for an more intimate seating arrangement. Otherwise, the main dinning room is filled with pic-nick table seating. Get cozy, and maybe you will meet someone interesting.

The menu itself is pretty basic: tacos, burritos and quesadillas. One has control over the type of meat: chorizo, pollo, carnitas, carne asada, cabeza, lengua and vegetarian. Patrons can "super" their burrito, adding cheese, guacamole and sour cream. Note that none come with rice.

Super carnitas burrito, with side of chips and salsa
2017 la Taqueria. San Francisco, CA

I opted for the item that landed la Taqueria the 538.com burrito crown: super carnitas burrito, with a side of chips and salsa. First to note was the tortilla: toasted to a nice golden brown, not over-toasted that its structural integrity is compromised, yet not under toasted so that the burrito's lack of rigidity makes it difficult to eat by hand. The internals of the burrito were of the perfect consistency, with just the right balance of meat, beans, and additions to allow all the flavors to form a cohesive flavor profile.

The carnitas themselves were outstanding; tender, with just the right about of rich pork flavor without being overly salty or seasoned to ruin the burrito's delicate balance. The pinto beans were similarly cooked to perfection, being just soft enough to make for a inviting texture while not overly blended. The avocado and sour cream were nice touches, yielding creamy rich notes that accentuated the carnitas. La Taqueria's hot sauce, which is provided in squirt bottles for self application, rounded out the burrito by adding smokey jalapeño and tomatillo notes.

Pivoting to the chips and salsa, I was impressed with the freshness of the salsa that came with the chips. Essentially pico de gallo, the fresh cilantro, tomato and onion really complimented the fried tortilla chips. The chips were not overly salted, which was a simple yet appreciated touch. Adding a little hot sauce along with the salsa added that necessary heat that others may desire.

Overall, a darn good Mexican meal for under $15 that will be sure to satisfy even those with monstrous appetites (while it doesn't look like it in the picture posted, the burrito was quite sizable). I will definitely be making a return call, only this time to try an assortment of tacos. Having watched them make these Mexican hand rolls of meat and onion goodness after ordering, I was tempted to try to add to my order. Oh well... it just means I will have to stop back again some day.

Dining date: April 8, 2017